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"Feng
Huang" is Chinese for "Phoenix", the mythical
bird of good omen and longevity that is consumed by fire to be
re-born again from the flames. Feng Huang Cheng or Phoenix Town
is so called as legend has it that two of these fabulous birds
flew over it and found the town so beautiful that they hovered
there, reluctant to leave.
Feng
Huang Cheng is a wonderful example of what villages were like
prior to the onset of modernization. Here dozens of alleys paved
with flagstones run between the houses, each showing wear caused
by the feet of generations of local people who have used them
when going about their daily business. For the visitor, these
alleys are the way to see the typical high gabled wooden houses
built on stilts along the banks of the Tuo Jiang River at close
quarters.
Stretching
diagonally from the northwest to southeast of the town, Tuo
Jiang River is a life force of the local people. Here in its
waters women wash their clothes and the men fish with their
nets, while on the bank food is prepared in much the same way as
it has for centuries. The river also provides a means for
boatmen to support their families by ferrying tourists up and
down stream so that they may admire the many splendours of the
town.
Feng
Huang Cheng was home to the versatile writer Shen Congwen
(1902-88) who contributed greatly to the development of modern
Chinese literature. Venerated by the local residents, the one
time home and the tomb of this famous writer have become tourist
attractions.
There
are two other notable people from the town worthy of mention.
The first is Xiong Xiling the famous philanthropist who was the
first premier of the Republic of China (1921-49) following the
fall of the Manchu. The other famous citizen is Huang Yongyu, an
outstanding contemporary painter in the traditional Chinese
style. His frescoes illustrating Buddhist stories in the Zhunti
Nunnery are a major tourist attraction.
Feng
Huang Cheng does not rely entirely upon natural beauty to
attract the visitor for this ancient town with a history
spanning 1300 years has a number of remarkable old gardens as
well as distinctive residential buildings, elegant bridges and
mysterious towers and pagodas. These architectural delights date
from the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911). Those of special
interest are the Wengchen Pavilion, Huang Si Qiao Castle, Tian
Wang Temple, Da Cheng Hall, Chao Yang Palace, and the tomb of
Shen Congwen and the residence of Xiong Xiling. Here too there
are the North Gate and South Great Wall both excellent examples
of municipal fortification.
In
many ways, life has not changed here for centuries and this is
typified by the tough, hard working yet simple-hearted people.
Feng Huang Cheng offers the visitor from both home and abroad a
view of a quite different China from anything experienced in the
modern cities and large conurbations that are more widely known.
We are sure that the opportunity to travel in such a picturesque
region will be remembered as an experience of a lifetime.
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